Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Saturday delivered the promised fantastic conditions and the lycra clad rock warriors flocked to the warm stone of Thompson's Point to celebrate 20 years of Australia's premier sport crag.
By the end of the day, President of the International Olympic Committee Jacques Rogge declared it to be the best T10 ever, to the roar of an exuberant crowd.
The prizes were shared between the old school Nowra die-hards and the new generation of Nowraphiles who have ventured south to make the sacred rock their own.
The Male Points prize and the title of Undisputed Best Rock Climber went to Sharik Walker who cranked numerous 30's, multiple 29's and several 28's. The Female Points prize was claimed by Lauren Chandler who's consistent approach to ticking the classics ensured her place in the history books.
Dan Wilde, left no ring-bolted stone unturned as he churned his way through the gems to claim 27 scalps on his way to claiming the Male Volume prize. Jo Whittaker, after being coerced into changing categories, forwent second place in the Points Category to take out the prize in the Female Volume category. Fitting reward for a day of chasing the chains on many routes.
The Crag Lords are the seasoned players, the climbers that know the routes like their own children. Each move to them is like a part of that child's life, something to be savoured. Fittingly, the Male Crag Lord prize was shared this year by two of Nowra's most beloved sons who battled it out, trading route for route all day only to end up tied. Andrew Bull and Graeme Fairbairn's names will be forever immortalised on the Male Crag Lords trophy. The Female Crag Lord title, went to one of Nowra's most ardent supporters, Lucy Ellis, with a powerhouse display of tickage.
The Juniors, the young guns of T10, were all about volume too. Whether on lead or top-rope these young bucks and does didn't stop all day and went the full-time whistle blew, Bryson Klein had cranked out 17 routes and Loesje Fletcher topped out on 16!
The Best Dressed Award went to a cross between Warwick Capper and Dan Osman, a mullet wearing, Guns 'n' Roses loving Dave Berry.
The Best Effort Award went to the pre-T10 effort of Rachel Musgrave, who traveled all the way from New Zealand to be part of the event. Rachel, a veteran of the early years of Nowra, couldn't resist the thought of seeing all the boys she gazed out so longingly in the past clad in skin tight, super thin lycra. Special mention must also be made to another group of mad Kiwis who made the trip over the dutch and impressed everyone with their fire jumping skills. A stack of their awesome photos can be seen at http://astro.smugmug.com/gallery/9329933_LAdLw#623895283_Fy2y2
Thanks to all those who came along, climbed, partied, socialised and had a fantastic time. You made it! Carlie and I enjoyed organising the event, for us the climbing community, you guys is what it's all about. We enjoyed seeing you all and we are so grateful for your support. See you at T10 2010!
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Carlie and I have ordered 120 sausages and we'll have rolls handy at the BBQ. You're welcome to bring your own bits to chuck on the barbie if you prefer something a bit more 'haute cuisine' or food that wasn't running about in a paddock recently. As there are no entry fees we would appreciate if people could throw a few dollars in the bucket at the BBQ to cover the costs of the food and the scoresheets. Last year we broke even, but if there's any money left over we'll put it back into the cliff in the form of stainless steel.
As per tradition, the prizes for the winners in each category will be cakes, plus this year the "Nowra The Home of Power" perpetual trophies will be unveiled. A big shoutout to Matt Klein for making the trophies and Bruce Cameron for the amazing oil painting detail on them. You'll know what I mean when you see them, they're works of art.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Any Questions? Ask us on the day or on the message board on the right.
See you there
1. This is a social event. There is no registration or entry fee.
2. The event starts at 7:30 a.m. on Saturday the 15th August at the Thompson’s Point Carpark. Score sheets will be handed out then. If you need a later start you can find us somewhere at Thompson's on Saturday morning.
3. Climbing concludes at 5:30 p.m. Please respect the rules by stopping climbing then. Scorecards must be handed in by 5:30p.m. at the Thompson’s Point Carpark.
4. BBQ and presentation afterwards is at Shoalhaven Caravan Village.
17 Terara Road, Nowra (turn right at Moss Street when coming from Thomo’s)
5. There are 8 categories:
a. Open Male – Volume
b. Open Female – Volume
c. Junior Male
d. Junior Female
e. Open Male – Points
f. Open Female – Points
g. Crag Lords Male
h. Crag Lords Female
6. Volume Categories – climbers attempt to climb as many routes as they can, the total number of routes climbed are counted up as the climber’s score.
7. Junior Categories – Juniors must be 16 years old or younger on the 15th of August 2009. Juniors’ rules are the same as the Volume competition, except that routes may be top-roped or led.
8. Points Categories – in the Points category, climbers try to do their 10 hardest climbs. Each climb is awarded points according to the following table:
All route grades are according to Rod’s 2000 ‘Rockclimbing at Nowra’ guide. More recently added routes and routes that are now considered harder should be checked with the organisers (Carlie and Rob).
There are bonus routes that are worth extra points.
Little Graham’s Boulder
Cowboy Junkies Roof
Ten Gallon Rehab
No More Gaps
Little Grease Cave
Young and Dumb
Caught in the Act
Say You Don’t Want To Slip It In
Betty Blue Area
Broken and Barbed
Spank the Donkey
9. Open Climbers (Volume and Points) do not have to choose which category they enter until the end of the event, however only one category may be entered.
10. Crag Lords Categories – Every climb the climber completes counts toward their final score according to the following table.
15 or lower
16 - 20
21 and above
11. All routes must be led (except by Juniors) from the ground to clip the top anchors from the normal finishing stance. Top-roping (for Opens), yoyoing, soloing, roped solos, simul-climbing and anything else like that is not allowed.
12. You may only count each route in your total or score once.
13. You may visit any part of Thompsons Point, from Indian Wall to the Wastelands.
14. Chill out, have fun, make new friends and catch up with old friends. Your greatest competitor is yourself.
15. This is a fun event. The organisers reserve the right to disqualify anyone who we consider to be cheating, spoiling the event for others, or generally being a dick.You are responsible for your own safety. Climbing is potentially dangerous and the competition organisers cannot be responsible for the security of the fixed protection, the solidity of the rock or the competence of your belayer. If in doubt, back-off, have rest or go home. Just don’t try to blame us for your mistakes
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Friday, August 7, 2009
So if you don't win, don't blame your father.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Friday, July 31, 2009
- Thomo's T10 is a social event designed to get climbers together to have a lot of fun. The competition aspect of it is just there to add to the fun, but not meant to be taken too seriously.
- The BBQ afterward will be held at Shoalhaven Caravan Village. There are cabins and plenty of camping space there, and nice bathrooms!
- They're at: 17 Terara Road, Nowra
- Phone: 02 4423 0770
- To get there, coming from the north, turn left at the second set of lights (Moss Street) after the bridge, just after the speed camera. Follow this road past Nowra High and after it curves right Shoalhaven Caravan Village is on the left.
- Click here for a map
- For the Opens and Youths (16 and under) the same scoring system will be used as last year. Opens must redpoint their route to get the points but Youths may top-rope. Bonus point routes will be announced shortly.
- There will be no Junior Category for 18 and 19 year olds!
- Pumpers get one point for every route they redpoint, whether it's a 13 or a 30!
- The Crag Lord Category is open to climbers who have been climbing for more than 20 years or have 5 children (photographic evidence required!).
- Crag Lords must also redpoint every route. they score 1 point for routes grade 15 and lower, 2 points for routes graded 16 to 20 and 3 points for routes graded 21 or harder.
- In all categories, you can only count a individual route once (no laps).
- Climbing starts at 7:30 am and finishes at 5:30 pm.
- Dave Filan, the man who put up the first route at Thomo's, has right of way at all times.
- The organisers take no responsibility for your safety, climbing is dangerous, hitting the ground hurts.
The first of the new routes to find its way across the stone that loves to be climbed was Al Pryce's Hamgirdlar 31 at Cheesedale. This instant classic starts up Wam Bam Thank You Mam 24 and heads right, crossing Al's 2008 addition to the crag, Strike of the Silver Fox 27 and punching further out the roofs. Meanwhile, Matt Adams rediscovered an abandoned Paul Westwood project starting up Old, Fat and Married 17 at Bartondale and continues powerfully up the bulging wall above. Mr Teeny weighs in at grade 30.
The repeats have been plentiful.
- Bloc master, Marc Edwards showed his versatility, redpointing the shortest and longest routes at south central; Sperm Bitches 31 and Dungeon Master 31.
- Mayor of Faulconbridge, Andi Richardson found time betwen ground falls to repeat Metamophisis 30 at Cheesedale and Comin at Ya Hyper 27 at South Central.
- Pistol Pete Tosen continued to roam the comeback trail with an ascent of Lover Boy 30 at Thomo's.
- Sir Tickalot, Luke Geelen continued on his merry way, adding Brown Badge 27 to his 2009 booty bag.
- Young Penrith gun, Thom Samuels had great day. Having previously climbed only one 25, he tore Nowra up, onsighting Mega Mac 25 and doing Red Baron 26 4th go!
- Heather finally stopped listening to Nathan Hoette's beta and heeded the wise words of the man with the golden touch, Luke Geelen, to send Top One Thomo 27.
- Wollongong's most eligible bachelor, Paul Mehag settled an old score with Frosty 29.
- On the bouldering front, Sheila Binegas did Nappy Nuggets V8 at Lot 33. Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UILyFUicK20
- Canberra wunderkind, Dan Fisher has been filling in the gaps on his tick-list and churned his way through a host of classics. Including redpointing: Frosty 29, Krusty 28, Brown Badge 27 and Top One Thomo 27, and onsighting: Potato Junkies and Pale Yellow Underwear, both 24.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
What we can reveal is that a new category has been added to the line-up! The Crag Lords category is open to climbers who have been climbing for longer than Thomo's has been around (ie. more than 20 years) or have at least 5 children. There will be a different scoring system for the Crag Lords. Stay tuned for more details.
Clothing chainstore, Supre have reported being inundated by climbers wanting to deck themselves from head to foot in lycra. Apparently the tights and body hugging tops have been disappearing off the racks. So shop up soon.
Brecon Littleford ticked off Livin' The Hustlers Dream 28, reporting unbelievably good conditions over at the Hood. G-Banger, Luke Gelan, topped out on Still Life With Chalk Bag 26 after taking a "deck" fall onto the halfway ledge. Undeterred the Sutherland Slinger went back up and sent the rig. Norrie, Matt Norgrove, ticked off Butts Of Beef 25, his hardest Nowra tick to date. As for me, I was keen for a tick, but I neeed some 2009 climbing Karma. So I strapped some home-made, cardboard, South Australian number plates onto my car, changed my name to 'GeBreton', drank a litre of Murray River water and sent Loverboy 30.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
15 March 1995 - 7 July 2009
A significant figure in the climbing world, Leroy passed away this week after a life filled with fun, food and adventure. Having spent a good part of his life at the crag, he was laid to rest in the family backyard, close to the action, and a tribute to him will be established at his favourite crag, PC.
Leroy started going climbing from the moment he became mine. He had many climbing adventures. He was in my backpack, head poking out the top, as I climbed up the 30 metre high and overhanging at the top access rungs at the Gaza Strip (Nowra). He took a massive fall down the steep creek around from PC, bouncing from ledge to ledge, only to walk away unscathed at the bottom, in typical Leroy style. He managed to climb to within a few metres of the top of the crag near the rungs at PC while trying to follow Paul Westwood to the bakery. And, he soloed the first 15 metres of Deceptor, grade 10, at Zigzag in the Mountains when trying to follow Minah up her first big climb.
He was hit in the head with a cricket bat chasing the ball, he had a half tonne block of concrete fall on him, he fell off a cliff at Wave Wall, but he always shook himself off and walked away from it. He dodged a bar-fridge sized block I knocked off while cleaning a new route by centimetres. Nothing ever got him down. He was always just as keen to play, eat and make the most of life.
In his final breaths Leroy asked me to pass on a few thankyous. “Thanks to everyone who took the time to throw a ball, throw a stick, share some lunch or just give me a pat. Thanks to Paul who always brought a custard tart to the crag and left on a rock for me to eat when I felt like it. I could tell he enjoyed seeing me eat it because he always jumped up and down and danced around just as I was licking up the final crumbs. Thanks to Boydo for all the pies (but seriously, vegetarian?). I’m sorry Mike for weeing on your lap in the back seat of the Beetle. It’s been a good life being a crag dog, a family dog and a legend.”
I would like to say thank you to Leroy. He’s been my companion for fourteen years. During my darkest times, he was there for me. No matter what he was loyal, happy and lifted me up. In my most joyful times he was there to share them too. He was the most trustworthy dog to have around children and never said no to a game. He was my training partner; always at the board keeping me company and helping me get me out of bed for early runs. But perhaps most importantly he was an amazing teacher. He taught me how to be good father, before I had children. He taught me about passion, enthusiasm and focusing my energy. He taught me that no matter how bad things may seem, it’s still fun to chase the ball.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Meanwhile, Sydney-based, reformed Adelaidians have been busy ticking too. Continuing his purple streak, G-Banger, Luke Geelen added Top One and Maintain The Rage 27 to his hefty bag. Matt Adams and Sharik Walker have both ticked off Narcosis 30 and Lover Boy 30. Lover Boy is a variant finish to Narcosis, taking the Baby Just Don't Bite It finish, rather than the normal straight up one.
Keeping the flag flying for the locally raised climbers, G-Man added another new route to Cheesedale! This one starts about 15 metres right of the the crack, Strike of the Silver Fox 27, and heads diagonally right. Another classic, Super Average Man 26. In the ladies lounge, word is that Jess Tam did Mega Mac 25 and Mel Head ticked the classic Beefmaster 23 at Mortein Wall. Doug Roden onsighted Betty Blue 24 and George Broadfoot ticked off an old nemesis, Top One Thomo.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
So, if your one of those who need a few fashion tips for the big event, to get your 80s wardrobe happening, here's a few tips...
You could go Seppo style. The Americans love a fashion trend and know how to milk it to it's full.
Here we see an American visitor on an early attempt to repeat Married and Mortgaged 30?. The rock was a bit more golden back then!
Of course if you've gone to the trouble of stuffing a pair of footy sox down the front of your white tights make sure you heel-hook as often as possible, even on slabs.
And, it's not all about lycra. There's nothing wrong with a good pair of short shorts and a stripey muscle shirt. Here, Todd Skinner demonstrates on an early attempt at Shufflepuff 22.
Euros are the true style-masters. Yes the tights are enough to send passers-by into epileptic fits and the harness can be seen from outer-space, but the real fashion statement here is the casual chalk-up while cutting loose.
Of course you could just raid my cupboard, there's no shortage of classic outfits in Faulconbridge. Why not go the metro-sexual-before-it-was-cool pink ensemble? (sorry about it being sideways)
The Leopard print is sure to get you up that project in the Grease Cave, as demonstrated here on the first ascent of Top One Thomo 27.
And how could you go past the snake-skin and head-band mega-mix?
So now I've put my dark past out there,
Announcing the Thomo's T10 bad 80s Photo Competition.
Bring your best/worst eighties fashion photos to Thomo's T10 where they will be displayed at the BBQ and a prize will be given to the one the judges (Carlie and I) think is the best or worst. We'd prefer them to be at least A4 size and don't bring the originals, they may not make it home intact.