Monday, July 21, 2008
Season 2008 at Nowra just keeps getting hotter! Actually, I mean cooler. Literally that is. Cool temperatures, southerlies and clear skies have meant that the holds have been sticky and the sendage is happening. The Al and Andi show rolled into the creek on Saturday and left all routes in their wake. They warmed up at The Grotto both sending the now classic Funky Gripsta 27, Al flashing the route. Funky G also received a quick ascent from Dapto's own Paul Mehag. Onto the creek, Al cleaned up Mr Bubbles 29, Sideshow Bob 27 and flashed Krusty 28 at Bartondale, and did Aloha Paradise 30 at Rosies. Not one to be left out, Andi, having put Physical Graffiti 31 to bed midweek, also got in on the action with a fast send of Mr Bubbles.
Meanwhile, over at Thompson's, Helen Day got her world tour off to a flying start with ascents of Still Life With a Chalk Bag 26 and Cowboy Junkies 25. Blueys Hard Women Jarmila Tyrril put her fingers of steel to good use and sent Skin To Skin 29, following up her recent ascent of White Trash 27.
Sunday was also exciting, with Chris Webb-Parsons ticking the stout Beefmeister 32.
It's a bit off topic, but there is a buzz on the street about the "Nowra Of The North", The Goat Cave at Buladelah. This fine piece of crazy stone has been a closely guarded Newcastle secret for at least the past 100 years. Justin Jefferson and Dan Wilde have finally given up ignoring the longest, steepest section and have some wild pumpfest projects on the go. You'll need to pack at least 16 draws for these ones! The classics are getting lots of repeats, so watch this space!
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Monday, July 7, 2008
Sunday, July 6, 2008
In the week after the 24 Hours of Power the pace has continued strongly. The day after 24 Hours of Power while the rest of us were nursing tired and sore bodies, Tom 'The Butcher' Farrell made 2nd shot ascents of Slip Slop Slap 29 at Thomo's and the stout Evil E 27 (28?) at The Hood. Oh to be young and able to recover so quickly...
Last Saturday Al Price continued to work his way through the harder Nowra classics, flashing Cheese Monster 30 at Cheesedale.
On Sunday the it was standing room only in the Grease Cave as many routes were fondled but very few chains clipped. Sexy Is The Word saw a bit of attention, Mark Withers gave it a bash after a morning well spent ticking the new improved Jug To Jug V11? at Cheesedale. Ren Bombala ticked Pulling On the Porcelain 23 on his first visit to the cave after a monumental first attempt which saw him denied with the chains in reach. I tried to popularise the little top-rope problems below the start of Lost Weekends, the 22 is a classic! Andi Richardson added to his Grease Cave resume, Cruising up Love Bug 27 and Inflatey Katey 26.
There was strong Canberra contingent at the crag backing up after the bouldering comp there on Saturday. Tick Of The Day went to Ester who climbed the hardest 25 in the known universe A Very Nice Piece of Cake (this opinion maybe influenced by the fact that we're both short and shit on slabs). Strong Canberra lad Joe Horan made an impressive ascent of Top One Thomo 27. Great stuff!
JJ has up loaded some photos from the 24 Hours of Power BBQ. Check them out here.
Carlie is working hard on the 24 Hours Of Power Video. Watch this space...
Thanks to Lauren Chandler for your really positive comments on the ACA forum. We'll hold you to your promise to be in it next year!
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
It was hard to find a car park at Thompson's Point last weekend and the walls were packed with climbers enjoying the stone. Over at the Creek, the South Central car park was packed until well after dark on Saturday as climbers squeezed in that last route of the day. 24 Hours of Power at Nowra was conceived as a way get climbers on the rock, meeting, talking, sharing and building the sense of community that is a wonderful aspect of our sport. The competitive part of the weekend was a sideline to the real business of hanging out, but it did provide many exciting and amusing moments.
The overall points winner was Jan Zbranek whose twenty routes included ascents of Dungeon Master 31, Pimp Behind the Wheels 30, a few 29s and 28s and a stack of routes in the mid 20s. In second place and best Aussie effort was Matt Adams who managed to haul himself up Frosty 29, Ain't No Sunshine 28 and plethora of other classics. Third place went to renaissance man Graham Fairbairn and fourth place to Andi Richardson who managed his 20 routes in a massive one day effort on Saturday (he had to work Sunday) fueled by energy gels and sports drinks. Andi's day culminated in an inspired ascent at 7:30 pm of Come Poo with Me 24 at South Central with his headtorch on and his arms cramping badly! Best Female in the points category was Phoebe (sorry Phoebe, I didn't get your surname!)
In the volume competition Malin Hannu was clear winner in the female division climbing 34 routes, visiting 3 crags, and managing to get lost on the tourist track at Hospital Rocks on Saturday night! The volume male winner was Marcus Loane who bounced out of his car at 6 am on Saturday morning with his harness already on, teamed up with Malin and didn't stop all weekend. Marcus climbed 42 routes, cut new tracks (accidently) at The Lair and still managed to fit in few games of bowling on Saturday night!
In the juniors, Brittany Fletcher took out the female event doing nearly as many routes over the weekend as she has done on rock before in her life! Nick Wagland took home the cake for the best junior male after the stout effort of catching the train down from Coffs Harbour to attend!
A cake was awarded to Jason Piper and Matt Pascoe for the strongest start. These hardcore, psyched lads cranked out Cowboy Junkies 25 by headtorch at 6 am on Saturday to start and were the last ones in on Sunday arvo as they tried to squeeze one more route in!
The cake for 'living up to the routes name' went to Luke Geelan who was on his last route of the day on Sunday, long after his arms had given up. At the top of Fist Full of Steel, with the rope out and nothing left in the tank he snatched the chain and avoided the death plummet. Better to live to fight another day!
The trivia competition was won by Graham Fairbairn and Andrew Bull who should know a thing or two about Nowra climbing history!
Another highlight of the weekend were Wendy Walker making the first ascent of Baby Conehead, a new three star 21 at The Hood, to the right of Girls In the Hood. This route now holds the Nowra record for having the most repeats in its first day, receiving 10 ascents! As the name suggests it's just like Coneheads only littler and easier! It climbs an over hung corner before launching out onto a steep face!!
Unable to participate in the 24 Hours of Power competition due to time constraints, but still keen to be part of the action, Chris Webb-Parsons made it down on the Saturday and made the first ascent of what is now the hardest route at South Central, and Nowra's first 33 (although we do have a 34)! Hats and Hoods is an extension to Crenshaw Boulevard adding a burly boulder on top of this already solid route.
Chris Wallace (Wobblebunns) had what he has declared to be his proudest sporting moment ever when he decimated the field in the old boys ten pin bowling session, not once, but twice. In a flawless display he decided to try some spin and reaped the rewards!
Carlie and I would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who came to Nowra last weekend and climbed, hung out, talked, encouraged and generally added to the fantastic atmosphere at the crags. Thanks to all the climbers who participated in this fun style of competition in the light-hearted way in which it was intended. A huge thank you to Big John for donating the sausages and rolls and manning the BBQ on Sunday evening to make sure the climbers were well fed afterwards. We learnt a lot and look forward to doing it again next year in new improved way!