Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Attack of the Crow-Eaters

The latest fashionable accessory this season at Nowra is South Australian number plates on your car. Not content with giving the sporting world the Adelaide Hurricane, Shaun Tait, SA keeps sending it's finest crankers over to hone their trade on the Nowra proving grounds. The latest to come were Mick Wells and Bill Baggins. Refusing to do anything less than awesome, the boys from South Oz still had plenty to keep them busy. Over a week Mick managed to collect 105 stars, and Bill managed 91. In amongst the tidal wave of classics, Mick ticked Ain't No Sunshine 28, Hard Candy 27 and Top One Thomo 27 and onsighted Butts of Beef 25, Trigga Nigga 25, and Mega Mac 25. Bill Ticked the tidy bag of Stone Roses 26, Slut Whipping 26, A Piece of Cake 25 and Trigga Nigga 25. With tired arms, they retreated home to spread the word of Nowra's superiority to the rest of the Adelaide Clan.

Meanwhile, Sydney-based, reformed Adelaidians have been busy ticking too. Continuing his purple streak, G-Banger, Luke Geelen added Top One and Maintain The Rage 27 to his hefty bag. Matt Adams and Sharik Walker have both ticked off Narcosis 30 and Lover Boy 30. Lover Boy is a variant finish to Narcosis, taking the Baby Just Don't Bite It finish, rather than the normal straight up one.

Keeping the flag flying for the locally raised climbers, G-Man added another new route to Cheesedale! This one starts about 15 metres right of the the crack, Strike of the Silver Fox 27, and heads diagonally right. Another classic, Super Average Man 26. In the ladies lounge, word is that Jess Tam did Mega Mac 25 and Mel Head ticked the classic Beefmaster 23 at Mortein Wall. Doug Roden onsighted Betty Blue 24 and George Broadfoot ticked off an old nemesis, Top One Thomo.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Queer (as in different/interesting) Eye For a Climber Guy (and Girl)

Well, since the date for Thomo's T10 was released this week, Vinnies have been inundated with climbers desperate for lycra, stripes and hand-knitted vests. Vinnies CEO, St Vincent, was quoted in Sydney media reports as saying, "it's been our busiest week ever, we had to send to Europe for back-up supplies of bad lycra."

So, if your one of those who need a few fashion tips for the big event, to get your 80s wardrobe happening, here's a few tips...

You could go Seppo style. The Americans love a fashion trend and know how to milk it to it's full.
Here we see an American visitor on an early attempt to repeat Married and Mortgaged 30?. The rock was a bit more golden back then!


Of course if you've gone to the trouble of stuffing a pair of footy sox down the front of your white tights make sure you heel-hook as often as possible, even on slabs.



And, it's not all about lycra. There's nothing wrong with a good pair of short shorts and a stripey muscle shirt. Here, Todd Skinner demonstrates on an early attempt at Shufflepuff 22.


Euros are the true style-masters. Yes the tights are enough to send passers-by into epileptic fits and the harness can be seen from outer-space, but the real fashion statement here is the casual chalk-up while cutting loose.



Of course you could just raid my cupboard, there's no shortage of classic outfits in Faulconbridge. Why not go the metro-sexual-before-it-was-cool pink ensemble? (sorry about it being sideways)


The Leopard print is sure to get you up that project in the Grease Cave, as demonstrated here on the first ascent of Top One Thomo 27.


And how could you go past the snake-skin and head-band mega-mix?


So now I've put my dark past out there,

Announcing the Thomo's T10 bad 80s Photo Competition.

Bring your best/worst eighties fashion photos to Thomo's T10 where they will be displayed at the BBQ and a prize will be given to the one the judges (Carlie and I) think is the best or worst. We'd prefer them to be at least A4 size and don't bring the originals, they may not make it home intact.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Thomo's T10

The famed 24 Hours of Power has morphed this year into Thomo's T10.

Thomo's T10
will celebrate the 20th Anniversary of Thompson's Point.

Where: Thompson's Point
When: Saturday 15th August, 2009.
What: 10 routes in 10 hours, a scoring system will be unveiled later, and the popular pumper category will be be back.
Theme: 80's climbing attire, raid the local Vinnies or the back of your wardrobe and deck yourself out in lycra, short shorts, neck-kerchiefs, fluros and stripey pants.
BBQ and Party: after climbing
Why?: so you can tell your grandkids you were there!

More info to follow.

2 x G = sent

Putting in a strong early bid for the man of the season, G-man, Graham Fairbairn, has added a new route to Cheesedale and climbed an old classic. He started up Squeeze Me Hard, went into Dick Me Raw and punched out through the roof above, past 2 more rings to a high anchor to create the instant classic Dick Me Raw Some More 25. A route befitting Cheesedale both in quality and in name. But his work was not done. He had been trying the testpiece, Cheesemonster 30 and was getting close, but then had to spend last Sunday falling off the start and kicking his belayer, Dude, in the nuts numerous times. He returned last Tuesday and sent the Monster.

Meanwhile reports were coimg in from Thomo's...
"After giving up his life in Mount Gambier SA, a 10 year dream came true for Luke Geelander (G-Banger) in his search for hard Nowra routes. For a number of years, Luke has been after one of Thompson Point's ultimate gems. Last Sunday his dreams came true! For years, Luke had grappled with the crux taking numerous 10 metre whippers, until the body clicked into gear and Stone Roses 26 went down! To the roars of the of the onlookers that had gathered at the base of the climb, Luke lifted a great tombstone from his shoulders."
Thanks to our man on the ground, Matt Adams, for the eyewitness report.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Long Weekend Goes Bananas

Last weekend was the infamous Nowra June Long Weekend. Some think it's all about a day off to get over your flu, others lament that it's a day off when you can't go to the beach and a former PM thinks it has something to do with an old lady in a god-forsaken country. But those in the know, those that have seen the light, those who dare to fondle the treasured stone, know that the June Long Weekend is all about Nowra.

And come they did. The carparks were full, the crags were busy, the weather Gods provided outstanding conditions and a good time was had by all. The biggest news came from Pistol Pete Tosen who dried himself off, picked the wax off his chest and sent Narcosis 30 at Thomo's. Sharik Walker strolled out along Baby Just Don't Bite It 28 and Lucky Chance did the under-appreciated classic Lovebug 27.

Among the fortunate ones were a band of young climbers, many sampling their first taste of the Nowra rock. Among the best ascents from this merry band of junior crankers was Bryson Klein's (age 11) top-rope ascent of Killer Boas 22, Lindsey Fletcher's (also 11) outstanding leads and unstoppable enthusiasm and Minah LeBreton (9) cranking everything up to grade 18!


Always a family favourite, Mortein Wall. Bradley Cameron on Flood 18


The teenagers managed a few ticks, Nick Wagland onsighted Potato Junkies 24, a route which was then flashed by Scott Pritchard. Scott also ticked off, Butts of Beef 25 and Hyperactive Child 25. Nicole Farrell flashed Murdoch 22 and redpointed Pulling On the Porcelain 23.

Scott on Butts


Nicole on Pulling

But but by far the maost impressive ascents from this group came from the parents who showed the kids a thing or two about toughening up! Mother and father of 5, Jenny and Cam Fletcher cranked everything in sight, Jeff Crass and Carl Deininger didn't let up and Matt Klein ticked a long term project.

Matt on Killer Boas

Matt first tried Killer Boas last year, not feeling confident enough to lead it. He came back about a month ago and after a top-rope decided to go for it. He powered through the crux and got up to the mantle with his elbows up near his ears. Pushing up with his legs, above the last bolt, with the chain close enough to lick, he couldn't hold on any longer and took a screamer, dragging his belayer G Man up to the first bolt and stopping inches off the ground! He decided to call it a day then but was back for the long weekend. After training at the Faulconbridge Institute Of Sport, he hiked Killer Boas, managing to do it just before his son Bryson, phew!


video

Steve Moon imagining that it's 30 years ago and he's back at Glenbrook Gorge on Kippax Crack. Really he's on Shufflepuff 22. Watch closely kids, you can't learn these skills on a campus board.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

The news starts rolling in...

More news from last weekend was Pickles' (Nick Cormack) ascent of Krusty 28 at Bartondale. And, from a few weekends ago, Gary from Hong Kong made very impressive onsight of Beefcake 27 at Thomo's, route that gets few repeats. My guess is he didn't want to fall off and have to put himself through it again! A big thanks to Matt Pascoe for being the first person to submit news via the Message Board.

Monday, June 1, 2009

and it did rain...

After the premium early conditions enjoyed so far this year, an onset of the wet stuff was inevitable. But while much of the east coast drowned, climbing was still possible at Nowra last weekend.

South Central was the place to be on Saturday, with 33 people counted at the crag at one point in the day and plenty more coming and going as the day progressed. Al Pryce set the standard with an ascent of Crenshaw Boulevard 31. Faulconbridge's ticking machine Andi Richardson brought his form with him, making short work of Black Rage 28 and local Wollongong boy Matt Mellor ticked off two 26s, Red Baron and Megadeath, despite limiting himself to only half the holds on the routes! Over at Rosies, Luke Geelander was trying to set a new record for falling off at the chains the most times but accidently clipped them, bagging Super-Size Me 26. Meanwhile at PC, Swiss Tom cranked out the classic Turn Your Eyes Insane 26.

Sunday started off hopeful, with clear skies and cool temperatures, but things turned nasty pretty quickly. Soon the heavens opened and dumped their load on the lovely south coast. South Central became a point of no return as the creek swole and swallowed the track. That was about all the action recorded as climbers slipped and slided and greased off everthing.

video

Over at Thomo's however there was more action as Al sent his second route of the weekend, Sexy Is The Word 31. Not a bad weekend to celebrate your 29th birthday!