Dedicated to Nowraphiles, those who love rock climbing at Nowra. Nowra Rocks has been set up to let people know what's going on in Australia's premier climbing area. We have included news that we know about but we don't know everything so let us know if you have anything you can add. Knowledge is power. "Nowra is Australian for power" -Geoff Weigand 1994
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
T10 goes off!!!
Saturday delivered the promised fantastic conditions and the lycra clad rock warriors flocked to the warm stone of Thompson's Point to celebrate 20 years of Australia's premier sport crag.
By the end of the day, President of the International Olympic Committee Jacques Rogge declared it to be the best T10 ever, to the roar of an exuberant crowd.
The prizes were shared between the old school Nowra die-hards and the new generation of Nowraphiles who have ventured south to make the sacred rock their own.
The Male Points prize and the title of Undisputed Best Rock Climber went to Sharik Walker who cranked numerous 30's, multiple 29's and several 28's. The Female Points prize was claimed by Lauren Chandler who's consistent approach to ticking the classics ensured her place in the history books.
Newcastle's perpetual motion machine, Dan Wilde, left no ring-bolted stone unturned as he churned his way through the gems to claim 27 scalps on his way to claiming the Male Volume prize. Jo Whittaker, after being coerced into changing categories, forwent second place in the Points Category to take out the prize in the Female Volume category. Fitting reward for a day of chasing the chains on many routes.
The Crag Lords are the seasoned players, the climbers that know the routes like their own children. Each move to them is like a part of that child's life, something to be savoured. Fittingly, the Male Crag Lord prize was shared this year by two of Nowra's most beloved sons who battled it out, trading route for route all day only to end up tied. Andrew Bull and Graeme Fairbairn's names will be forever immortalised on the Male Crag Lords trophy. The Female Crag Lord title, went to one of Nowra's most ardent supporters, Lucy Ellis, with a powerhouse display of tickage.
The Juniors, the young guns of T10, were all about volume too. Whether on lead or top-rope these young bucks and does didn't stop all day and went the full-time whistle blew, Bryson Klein had cranked out 17 routes and Loesje Fletcher topped out on 16!
The Best Dressed Award went to a cross between Warwick Capper and Dan Osman, a mullet wearing, Guns 'n' Roses loving Dave Berry.
The Best Effort Award went to the pre-T10 effort of Rachel Musgrave, who traveled all the way from New Zealand to be part of the event. Rachel, a veteran of the early years of Nowra, couldn't resist the thought of seeing all the boys she gazed out so longingly in the past clad in skin tight, super thin lycra. Special mention must also be made to another group of mad Kiwis who made the trip over the dutch and impressed everyone with their fire jumping skills. A stack of their awesome photos can be seen at http://astro.smugmug.com/gallery/9329933_LAdLw#623895283_Fy2y2
Thanks to all those who came along, climbed, partied, socialised and had a fantastic time. You made it! Carlie and I enjoyed organising the event, for us the climbing community, you guys is what it's all about. We enjoyed seeing you all and we are so grateful for your support. See you at T10 2010!
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Forecast is Good
Carlie and I have ordered 120 sausages and we'll have rolls handy at the BBQ. You're welcome to bring your own bits to chuck on the barbie if you prefer something a bit more 'haute cuisine' or food that wasn't running about in a paddock recently. As there are no entry fees we would appreciate if people could throw a few dollars in the bucket at the BBQ to cover the costs of the food and the scoresheets. Last year we broke even, but if there's any money left over we'll put it back into the cliff in the form of stainless steel.
As per tradition, the prizes for the winners in each category will be cakes, plus this year the "Nowra The Home of Power" perpetual trophies will be unveiled. A big shoutout to Matt Klein for making the trophies and Bruce Cameron for the amazing oil painting detail on them. You'll know what I mean when you see them, they're works of art.
Hope you're training hard, see you in the carpark at 7:30!
Monday, August 10, 2009
T10 Rules
Any Questions? Ask us on the day or on the message board on the right.
See you there
1. This is a social event. There is no registration or entry fee.
2. The event starts at 7:30 a.m. on Saturday the 15th August at the Thompson’s Point Carpark. Score sheets will be handed out then. If you need a later start you can find us somewhere at Thompson's on Saturday morning.
3. Climbing concludes at 5:30 p.m. Please respect the rules by stopping climbing then. Scorecards must be handed in by 5:30p.m. at the Thompson’s Point Carpark.
4. BBQ and presentation afterwards is at Shoalhaven Caravan Village.
17 Terara Road, Nowra (turn right at Moss Street when coming from Thomo’s)
5. There are 8 categories:
a. Open Male – Volume
b. Open Female – Volume
c. Junior Male
d. Junior Female
e. Open Male – Points
f. Open Female – Points
g. Crag Lords Male
h. Crag Lords Female
6. Volume Categories – climbers attempt to climb as many routes as they can, the total number of routes climbed are counted up as the climber’s score.
7. Junior Categories – Juniors must be 16 years old or younger on the 15th of August 2009. Juniors’ rules are the same as the Volume competition, except that routes may be top-roped or led.
8. Points Categories – in the Points category, climbers try to do their 10 hardest climbs. Each climb is awarded points according to the following table:
GRADE | POINTS |
18 | 1 |
19 | 2 |
20 | 3 |
21 | 5 |
22 | 7 |
23 | 9 |
24 | 12 |
25 | 15 |
26 | 19 |
27 | 23 |
28 | 28 |
29 | 33 |
30 | 38 |
31 | 44 |
32 | 50 |
33 | 57 |
34 | 64 |
All route grades are according to Rod’s 2000 ‘Rockclimbing at Nowra’ guide. More recently added routes and routes that are now considered harder should be checked with the organisers (Carlie and Rob).
There are bonus routes that are worth extra points.
They are:
Sector | ROUTE | GRADE | POINTS |
Little Graham’s Boulder | Cheesy Noblicker | 22 | 12 |
Cowboy Junkies Roof | Ten Gallon Rehab | 27 | 33 |
Alley Wall | Tinman | 21 | 7 |
Butterfly Wall | No More Gaps | 30 | 50 |
Pocket Wall | Beef Cake | 27 | 32 |
Little Grease Cave | Young and Dumb | 25 | 21 |
Grease Cave | Caught in the Act | 26 | 27 |
Say You Don’t Want To Slip It In | 30 | 50 | |
Betty Blue Area | Broken and Barbed | 20 | 14 |
Vine Wall | Spank the Donkey | 24 | 17 |
9. Open Climbers (Volume and Points) do not have to choose which category they enter until the end of the event, however only one category may be entered.
10. Crag Lords Categories – Every climb the climber completes counts toward their final score according to the following table.
Grade Range | 15 or lower | 16 - 20 | 21 and above |
Points | 1 | 2 | 3 |
11. All routes must be led (except by Juniors) from the ground to clip the top anchors from the normal finishing stance. Top-roping (for Opens), yoyoing, soloing, roped solos, simul-climbing and anything else like that is not allowed.
12. You may only count each route in your total or score once.
13. You may visit any part of Thompsons Point, from Indian Wall to the Wastelands.
14. Chill out, have fun, make new friends and catch up with old friends. Your greatest competitor is yourself.
15. This is a fun event. The organisers reserve the right to disqualify anyone who we consider to be cheating, spoiling the event for others, or generally being a dick.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Friday, August 7, 2009
One Week Until the Climbing Event of the Year!
So if you don't win, don't blame your father.
Monday, August 3, 2009
More Video Inspiration
Good advice.