Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Episode 1 of Nowra TV

Well here it is, the much anticipated first episode of Nowra TV. Sit back relax and enjoy...

Monday, March 15, 2010

There's a coolness in the air...

Yes climbers, that thing you dragged out of the bottom of the cupboard this week is a jumper, and it is probably still smells like the crag from last season. This can only mean one thing, Nowra season is nigh!

The mozzies are feeling the chill and going back to their miserable haunts, the rock is feeling sticky and the routes stand ready, waiting.

Sharik Walker has already got the ball rolling with a new 26 to the right of F.I.I.K. at PC. It starts out of the tree apparently, we're looking forward to Sharik revisiting it with a saw.

Carlie LeBreton pulled off a powerhouse repeat of Sex Machine 26 at South Central and even I managed to find a route I hadn't done before and did Exploding Plastic Inevitable 29.

Unreported from late last year was Nathan Hoette's link up of a skyline traverse of PC which starts up Dude Food, goes into Vogue for a bit and then into Church of Christ before following the summit ridge along past the Turn Your Eyes anchors to join Hopelessly Devoted to You just before its crux for the journey upwards to the anchors. Dedicated to Dude isn't an easy tick at 31.

Bring on the chill!

Thursday, February 25, 2010

2010 - The Year of the Tiger

While this blog went into Summer hibernation, I am sure lots has been going down at the cliffs of Nowra. We were down there last weekend and the rock was like gold. The mozzies were out in force, but the climbing was sensational.

The RTA has finally opened the new road south of Albion Park, fulfilling a promise that Kevin Rudd personally made at last year's T10 to improve access for this year winter session. It takes at least 10 min off the drive, giving you time for at least one more redpoint.

So who has been ticking over summer? There has to be some hard core Nowraphiles that have been climbing, bolting and sweating over summer. Let us know of your ticks (the climbs, not the biting kind. Unless they were in amusing places).

It's going to be a huge year. What this space!

Thursday, September 10, 2009

The T10 Video

Fresh from the editors desk is the T10 Video. Sit back, relax and relive that glorious day.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

T10 goes off!!!

Dude. It's his crag.

Saturday delivered the promised fantastic conditions and the lycra clad rock warriors flocked to the warm stone of Thompson's Point to celebrate 20 years of Australia's premier sport crag.

By the end of the day, President of the International Olympic Committee Jacques Rogge declared it to be the best T10 ever, to the roar of an exuberant crowd.

The prizes were shared between the old school Nowra die-hards and the new generation of Nowraphiles who have ventured south to make the sacred rock their own.

The Male Points prize and the title of Undisputed Best Rock Climber went to Sharik Walker who cranked numerous 30's, multiple 29's and several 28's. The Female Points prize was claimed by Lauren Chandler who's consistent approach to ticking the classics ensured her place in the history books.


Newcastle's perpetual motion machine, Dan Wilde, left no ring-bolted stone unturned as he churned his way through the gems to claim 27 scalps on his way to claiming the Male Volume prize. Jo Whittaker, after being coerced into changing categories, forwent second place in the Points Category to take out the prize in the Female Volume category. Fitting reward for a day of chasing the chains on many routes.


The Crag Lords are the seasoned players, the climbers that know the routes like their own children. Each move to them is like a part of that child's life, something to be savoured. Fittingly, the Male Crag Lord prize was shared this year by two of Nowra's most beloved sons who battled it out, trading route for route all day only to end up tied. Andrew Bull and Graeme Fairbairn's names will be forever immortalised on the Male Crag Lords trophy. The Female Crag Lord title, went to one of Nowra's most ardent supporters, Lucy Ellis, with a powerhouse display of tickage.



The Juniors, the young guns of T10, were all about volume too. Whether on lead or top-rope these young bucks and does didn't stop all day and went the full-time whistle blew, Bryson Klein had cranked out 17 routes and Loesje Fletcher topped out on 16!


The Best Dressed Award went to a cross between Warwick Capper and Dan Osman, a mullet wearing, Guns 'n' Roses loving Dave Berry.

The Best Effort Award went to the pre-T10 effort of Rachel Musgrave, who traveled all the way from New Zealand to be part of the event. Rachel, a veteran of the early years of Nowra, couldn't resist the thought of seeing all the boys she gazed out so longingly in the past clad in skin tight, super thin lycra. Special mention must also be made to another group of mad Kiwis who made the trip over the dutch and impressed everyone with their fire jumping skills. A stack of their awesome photos can be seen at http://astro.smugmug.com/gallery/9329933_LAdLw#623895283_Fy2y2

Rachel couldn't keep her eyes off G Man's tights.

Thanks to all those who came along, climbed, partied, socialised and had a fantastic time. You made it! Carlie and I enjoyed organising the event, for us the climbing community, you guys is what it's all about. We enjoyed seeing you all and we are so grateful for your support. See you at T10 2010!


Victorians...



Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Forecast is Good

Three days to go and the weather looks good! The forecast is for fine weather and 20 degrees. Sounds like cranking conditions!

Carlie and I have ordered 120 sausages and we'll have rolls handy at the BBQ. You're welcome to bring your own bits to chuck on the barbie if you prefer something a bit more 'haute cuisine' or food that wasn't running about in a paddock recently. As there are no entry fees we would appreciate if people could throw a few dollars in the bucket at the BBQ to cover the costs of the food and the scoresheets. Last year we broke even, but if there's any money left over we'll put it back into the cliff in the form of stainless steel.

As per tradition, the prizes for the winners in each category will be cakes, plus this year the "Nowra The Home of Power" perpetual trophies will be unveiled. A big shoutout to Matt Klein for making the trophies and Bruce Cameron for the amazing oil painting detail on them. You'll know what I mean when you see them, they're works of art.



Hope you're training hard, see you in the carpark at 7:30!

Monday, August 10, 2009

T10 Rules

These are the official T10 Rules.

Any Questions? Ask us on the day or on the message board on the right.


See you there

1. This is a social event. There is no registration or entry fee.

2. The event starts at 7:30 a.m. on Saturday the 15th August at the Thompson’s Point Carpark. Score sheets will be handed out then. If you need a later start you can find us somewhere at Thompson's on Saturday morning.

3. Climbing concludes at 5:30 p.m. Please respect the rules by stopping climbing then. Scorecards must be handed in by 5:30p.m. at the Thompson’s Point Carpark.

4. BBQ and presentation afterwards is at Shoalhaven Caravan Village.

17 Terara Road, Nowra (turn right at Moss Street when coming from Thomo’s)

5. There are 8 categories:

a. Open Male – Volume

b. Open Female – Volume

c. Junior Male

d. Junior Female

e. Open Male – Points

f. Open Female – Points

g. Crag Lords Male

h. Crag Lords Female

6. Volume Categories – climbers attempt to climb as many routes as they can, the total number of routes climbed are counted up as the climber’s score.

7. Junior Categories – Juniors must be 16 years old or younger on the 15th of August 2009. Juniors’ rules are the same as the Volume competition, except that routes may be top-roped or led.

8. Points Categories – in the Points category, climbers try to do their 10 hardest climbs. Each climb is awarded points according to the following table:

GRADE

POINTS

18

1

19

2

20

3

21

5

22

7

23

9

24

12

25

15

26

19

27

23

28

28

29

33

30

38

31

44

32

50

33

57

34

64

All route grades are according to Rod’s 2000 ‘Rockclimbing at Nowra’ guide. More recently added routes and routes that are now considered harder should be checked with the organisers (Carlie and Rob).

There are bonus routes that are worth extra points.

They are:

Sector

ROUTE

GRADE

POINTS

Little Graham’s Boulder

Cheesy Noblicker

22

12

Cowboy Junkies Roof

Ten Gallon Rehab

27

33

Alley Wall

Tinman

21

7

Butterfly Wall

No More Gaps

30

50

Pocket Wall

Beef Cake

27

32

Little Grease Cave

Young and Dumb

25

21

Grease Cave

Caught in the Act

26

27

Say You Don’t Want To Slip It In

30

50

Betty Blue Area

Broken and Barbed

20

14

Vine Wall

Spank the Donkey

24

17

9. Open Climbers (Volume and Points) do not have to choose which category they enter until the end of the event, however only one category may be entered.

10. Crag Lords Categories – Every climb the climber completes counts toward their final score according to the following table.

Grade Range

15 or lower

16 - 20

21 and above

Points

1

2

3

11. All routes must be led (except by Juniors) from the ground to clip the top anchors from the normal finishing stance. Top-roping (for Opens), yoyoing, soloing, roped solos, simul-climbing and anything else like that is not allowed.

12. You may only count each route in your total or score once.

13. You may visit any part of Thompsons Point, from Indian Wall to the Wastelands.

14. Chill out, have fun, make new friends and catch up with old friends. Your greatest competitor is yourself.

15. This is a fun event. The organisers reserve the right to disqualify anyone who we consider to be cheating, spoiling the event for others, or generally being a dick.

You are responsible for your own safety. Climbing is potentially dangerous and the competition organisers cannot be responsible for the security of the fixed protection, the solidity of the rock or the competence of your belayer. If in doubt, back-off, have rest or go home. Just don’t try to blame us for your mistakes