Long Weekend Goes Bananas

Last weekend was the infamous Nowra June Long Weekend. Some think it's all about a day off to get over your flu, others lament that it's a day off when you can't go to the beach and a former PM thinks it has something to do with an old lady in a god-forsaken country. But those in the know, those that have seen the light, those who dare to fondle the treasured stone, know that the June Long Weekend is all about Nowra.

And come they did. The carparks were full, the crags were busy, the weather Gods provided outstanding conditions and a good time was had by all. The biggest news came from Pistol Pete Tosen who dried himself off, picked the wax off his chest and sent Narcosis 30 at Thomo's. Sharik Walker strolled out along Baby Just Don't Bite It 28 and Lucky Chance did the under-appreciated classic Lovebug 27.

Among the fortunate ones were a band of young climbers, many sampling their first taste of the Nowra rock. Among the best ascents from this merry band of junior crankers was Bryson Klein's (age 11) top-rope ascent of Killer Boas 22, Lindsey Fletcher's (also 11) outstanding leads and unstoppable enthusiasm and Minah LeBreton (9) cranking everything up to grade 18!

Always a family favourite, Mortein Wall. Bradley Cameron on Flood 18

The teenagers managed a few ticks, Nick Wagland onsighted Potato Junkies 24, a route which was then flashed by Scott Pritchard. Scott also ticked off, Butts of Beef 25 and Hyperactive Child 25. Nicole Farrell flashed Murdoch 22 and redpointed Pulling On the Porcelain 23.

Scott on Butts


Nicole on Pulling

But but by far the maost impressive ascents from this group came from the parents who showed the kids a thing or two about toughening up! Mother and father of 5, Jenny and Cam Fletcher cranked everything in sight, Jeff Crass and Carl Deininger didn't let up and Matt Klein ticked a long term project.

Matt on Killer Boas

Matt first tried Killer Boas last year, not feeling confident enough to lead it. He came back about a month ago and after a top-rope decided to go for it. He powered through the crux and got up to the mantle with his elbows up near his ears. Pushing up with his legs, above the last bolt, with the chain close enough to lick, he couldn't hold on any longer and took a screamer, dragging his belayer G Man up to the first bolt and stopping inches off the ground! He decided to call it a day then but was back for the long weekend. After training at the Faulconbridge Institute Of Sport, he hiked Killer Boas, managing to do it just before his son Bryson, phew!

Steve Moon imagining that it's 30 years ago and he's back at Glenbrook Gorge on Kippax Crack. Really he's on Shufflepuff 22. Watch closely kids, you can't learn these skills on a campus board.

The news starts rolling in...

More news from last weekend was Pickles' (Nick Cormack) ascent of Krusty 28 at Bartondale. And, from a few weekends ago, Gary from Hong Kong made very impressive onsight of Beefcake 27 at Thomo's, route that gets few repeats. My guess is he didn't want to fall off and have to put himself through it again! A big thanks to Matt Pascoe for being the first person to submit news via the Message Board.

and it did rain...

After the premium early conditions enjoyed so far this year, an onset of the wet stuff was inevitable. But while much of the east coast drowned, climbing was still possible at Nowra last weekend.

South Central was the place to be on Saturday, with 33 people counted at the crag at one point in the day and plenty more coming and going as the day progressed. Al Pryce set the standard with an ascent of Crenshaw Boulevard 31. Faulconbridge's ticking machine Andi Richardson brought his form with him, making short work of Black Rage 28 and local Wollongong boy Matt Mellor ticked off two 26s, Red Baron and Megadeath, despite limiting himself to only half the holds on the routes! Over at Rosies, Luke Geelander was trying to set a new record for falling off at the chains the most times but accidently clipped them, bagging Super-Size Me 26. Meanwhile at PC, Swiss Tom cranked out the classic Turn Your Eyes Insane 26.

Sunday started off hopeful, with clear skies and cool temperatures, but things turned nasty pretty quickly. Soon the heavens opened and dumped their load on the lovely south coast. South Central became a point of no return as the creek swole and swallowed the track. That was about all the action recorded as climbers slipped and slided and greased off everthing.



Over at Thomo's however there was more action as Al sent his second route of the weekend, Sexy Is The Word 31. Not a bad weekend to celebrate your 29th birthday!

Season 09 Flying

Despite the deafening silence from Nowra Rocks, the 2009 Nowra season is up and running! The biggest news thus far is 16 year old Daniel Fisher's quick ascent of Sperm Bitches 31 at South Central. Dan polished his first 8b off in 2 days, only a few weeks before he did Aint' No Sunshine 28, his previous hardest tick! Another Canberra lad, Dan Smith did his first 24, There Goes The Neighbourhood. Also at South, while the Mountains was buffeted by cyclonic winds and sub-zero temperatures, Luke Geelan enjoyed perfect conditions to hike up Red Baron 26 and Carlie LeBreton styled her way up Scum 25. Meanwhile, Graeme Fairbairn was wrestling with Comin' At Ya Hyper 27, a torrid tustle that took a mid-week trip before it was decided in G-man's favour.

Over at PC, Al Pryce got back into the Nowra spirit with an ascent of Vogue 30. And over at Thomo's, everyones favourite provocateur, Lucky Chance did Top One Thomo 27 and Pitch strong boys, Mark Withers and Marc Landers did the under-rated classic Lovebug 27.

On more important matters, the post-climbing feeding offerings are still being analysed, but we will try to get some reviews of local eateries up soon. One establishment that has been declared a winner for those driving north after climbing is the Werri Beach Fish Shop.


Closer to the crag, the River Deli has long had a reputation for providing the finest coffee south of the 'Gong, but now they are also offering dinner. In the spirit of Masterchef, a group of climbing 'foodies' ventured into to review its offerings. The menu promised local fare, cooked simply. It was straight from the Gordon Ramsey songbook. True enough the food was good, but a little short on the extras or those of us used to pub-fare. A few vegies or a bit of salad on the side would have been welcome. A bit pricey for your average climber, and I'm still not sure about the apple on the pizza...

And so the search continues..

Andy's Gone!

As the Global Financial Crisis deepens and climate change takes it toll, many fine institutions is Western Society are decaying. And so it is with the latest victim of the financial meltdown. Andy's Burgers at Nowra, renowned feeder of climbers and fueller of Sunday redpoint is no more. The catastrophic news was relayed around the Sydney climbing community recently.

Shocked and saddened by this event, climbers have written moving obituaries in the local newspaper and have petitioned Kevin Rudd to bail out Andy's as part of the government's financial stimulus package. Climbers have despaired at finding another quality post-cragging eating venue with the Nowra season fast approaching. Just when it seemed that things could get no worse, came the devastating news that Bar Italia, the pasta place, has also gone under.

Is this the end for fine foods in Nowra? 

Or is it an opportunity?

Will a Phoenix rise from the ashes of Andy's to take it's place? 

Or will it tuna pasta at the campsite?

Will an enterprising, culinarily gifted climber take the plunge, live the dream and open his/her own eating place?

Or will Mentzy see the light and move to Nowra to open his much talked about cafe?

Only time will tell. But, we can only pray for a miracle before the season starts.

Forget cricket, climbing at Nowra is the summer sport!

Actually, don't forget cricket, particularly if you're an up and coming spin bowler. We need more of them!

But Summer is the new Winter at Nowra in 2008/2009. Conditions at South Central were nothing short of excellent last Saturday! The true believers who made the trek down, abandoning the drizzle, mist and fog of the mountains, were surprised to find the crags not only dry, but the rock sticky! Sunday was nearly as good. PC was bone dry apart from a couple of holds under the roof and all the Creek crags were very climbable.

Don't forget the mozzie spray though, those little suckers bite harder than a Wave Wall crimper!

End of the Season?

Having been a bit slack on the Nowra news reporting front, an update is well overdue. 'Man of the Season' Al Pryce reports that back on the 20th of September he made the first ascent of the much admired roof crack to the right of Wham, Bam at Cheesedale. To quote Al, "On a very warm Nowra day, Strike of the Silver Fox was born. Grade 27. I need to add a few more bolts but it's still ok to climb." Al went on to suggest that Nowra season is closed and mountains season is open. With temperatures soaring it seems the thing to do...

But upon arriving back in the country after a successful trip crushing the tiny pockets of the Frankenjura, (see Mad Dog Production's new movie 'My Left Foot' debuting on youtube tomorrow) Nowra stalwart Matt Adams headed to the Bluies and promptly declared the Nowra season back open and vowed to fight on down south. Showing incredible faith in the fabled miracle conditions delivered by the 'Shoalhaven Doctor' on  hot summer afternoons, he boldly predicted many hard ascents this summer!

Adam McClain seems to have taken Matt's words to heart and pulled out an onsight of The Big Kahoona 24 at Thompson's Point yesterday.

So is the season over? Is summer merely a slowing or will Matt's dream of a golden summer of ascents be realised? What this space...